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Sunday, October 31, 2010

Lyon (Oct 30-Nov 1): Food

We hopped on a train on Saturday and headed northbound. In less than 1.5 hours, we reached the 2nd largest metropolitan area in France: Lyon. We are here to eat some piggies, en français cochon, at restaurants called "bouchons."

Sunday morning, we walked about 1 hour toward the district "le Croix Rousse" where the silk industry flourished in early 19th century. We enjoyed the lively Sunday market, had a nice coffee break, joined a long queue to buy a baguette (where there is a line-up, there is always some good food!), and accidentally found a chocolatier Bouillet. As soon as I noticed they have a boutique in Tokyo as well, I again joined a long queue to get some colourful macaroons and some traditional sweets from Lyon called coussins. Japan, although it is quite far away from France, boasts finely established French culinary scene. It is not a fluke that the Japanese pastry chefs keep winning the world competitions, most recently the World Pastry Championship held in the US. So when France meets Japan, it cannot go wrong.

We then headed into the district "Presqu"île" and visited "le Bouchon des Filles." Unfortunately, they were completely booked out for lunch and dinner. Our will to eat piggies got stronger and stronger. It was raining quite heavily, and Chana was miserably wet although she had her rain coat on. We walked in search of a bouchon, and we reached "Aux Trois Cochons" not too far from where we were staying.

Nathan, bravely, started with a salad with thinly sliced pig ears sauteed with garlic. I started with a normal dish, French onion soup. Both were delicious.

Nathan bravely ordered something called "Double Gras" or double fat intestines, with a cake of potatoes, similar to Latke. I ordered "Parmentier au Queue de Boeuf" which resembled a shepherd's pie. Of course I did not know what parmentier or queue was, but it was delicious. It turns out that any potato dish is called parmentier, which is good to know, and queue is a tail, which is also useful to know.

For dessert, we ordered something called "Cervelle de Canut" literally meaning silk-weaver's brain. It was a creamy white cheese (just like plain yogurt) with some chives and garlic. If you like Dur (Persian yogurt drink) or Mast-o-Musir (Persian yogurt dish), you will like this too!

We highly enjoyed the meal, but it will take some time to recover from it. We could not even eat dinner that night, and our macaroons saved their lives from being eaten up all at once. Thanks to the end of the daylight savings, we were able to enjoy the 25th hour of the day just laying in bed, waiting to turn into cochons ourselves.



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